Lewes

One of my favourite day trips from home was to Lewes, a town that somehow manages to feel both deeply historic and vibrantly alive. Set against the rolling South Downs, Lewes wears its medieval character with ease — all cobbled streets, crooked chimneys, and independent shops that look like they’ve been pulled straight out of a storybook.

We began our day wandering through Southover Grange Gardens, and were quickly greeted by a flurry of squirrels. The gardens are beautifully kept, tucked beside the 16th-century Southover Grange itself, and are one of those places that make you want to slow down and take in every detail — the ivy-covered walls, the old stone fountain, the symmetry of the gardens.

From there, we walked up Keere Street, one of Lewes’ most iconic cobbled lanes. It’s steep, narrow, and full of character, lined with wonky buildings and a sense of timelessness that makes you want to imagine the footsteps that came before yours. At the top, you emerge onto the High Street, where independent shops, cafes, and historic facades continue the town’s unique blend of old and new.

One of my favourite stops was the Fifteenth Century Bookshop — a gorgeous timber-framed building full of second-hand books, hidden corners, and shelves that creak when you walk past. I could’ve spent hours in there alone.

We also saw Lewes Castle, a motte-and-bailey fortress that towers above the town and offers sweeping views over Sussex. As we walked past, they were hosting a reenactment of a medieval battle, complete with armour, swords, and dramatic shouts echoing off the stone walls. It was both funny and surprising to see history brought to life by grown men in their costumes — especially in a place that saw real conflict centuries ago.

To round out the day, we followed the path down to the Railway Land Wildlife Trust, a peaceful area of meadows, wetlands, and quiet boardwalks right near the station. It’s a calm, green space — a nice contrast to the bustling history of the town centre.

Lewes has roots stretching back to Saxon times, but its significance grew rapidly following the Norman Conquest of 1066. One of the key figures in this transformation was William de Warenne, 1st Earl of Surrey — my direct ancestor — who was granted extensive lands by William the Conqueror. He built Lewes Castle, and established the Cluniac Priory of St Pancras, which became one of the wealthiest and most influential monastic institutions in medieval England. In 1264, Lewes played a critical role in English political history as the site of the Battle of Lewes, a confrontation between King Henry III and rebel barons led by Simon de Montfort. The victory by de Montfort’s forces marked a turning point in the development of representative government, as it led to the calling of one of the first English parliaments.

During the medieval and early modern periods, Lewes thrived as a market town and became a centre for the Sussex wool and cloth trade. Its prosperity can still be seen in the beautifully preserved timber-framed buildings along Keere Streetand the High Street. The town also has a darker chapter from the 16th century: it was the site of the Lewes Martyrs, where 17 Protestant dissenters were burned at the stake during the Marian persecutions. Their memory is honoured each November 5th during the famous Lewes Bonfire Night, one of the largest and most elaborate in the UK.

Today, Lewes is known for its vibrant independent spirit, arts scene, and well-preserved historical character — a place where centuries-old traditions live side by side with a lively modern community.

When I visited Lewes, I didn’t yet know that William de Warenne was one of my ancestors — a discovery I made later while researching my family tree – see my post about it here. But even without that knowledge at the time, the town left a strong impression. It is definitely worth a visit!